You will need a FLAT surface to complete
this repair for your safety.
READ ALL OF
THIS PROCEDURE SEVERAL TIMES SO THAT YOU UNDERSTAND IT. DO NOT
PERFORM THE PROCEDURE OUT OF ORDER. THIS WILL RESULT IN DEATH
OR SERIOUS INJURY.
CLEAN THE WORK AREA
AROUND THE MASTER CYLINDER!! (THE POWER WASHER AT THE CAR WASH DOES
A GOOD JOB BUT TAKE THE FRONT LEFT WHEEL OFF SO YOU CAN DO A GOOD
JOB)
We have available
for download the complete procedure on our
DOWNLOADS page
TOOLS NEEDED:
11mm line wrench
13mm socket 6 point preferably
3 or 4 - 3 inch extensions
or 13mm "wiggler" 6 point; 3/8 drive
(2)15mm open end wrenches
1 quart DOT 3 brake fluid (if
this is a complete over-hall NOW! is the time to use a synthetic
brake fluid)
approximately a 6 inch prince
driver (you do not mind banging on)
a clean, flat surface
(2) jack stands
(2) wheel chocks
and one word of WARNING start all
the brake lines by hand in order to overt cross threading. Oh yeah,
take your time, be precise and methodical: They just have to work
EVERY time. Your life, occupants and the Volkswagen are depending on
you to do the job to perfection.
Parts needed:
dual master cylinder
some lintless shop towels or paper
towels
clean hands
(not being disturbed)
a little lithium base grease
(Mystic JT-6 is what I use)
a willing partner to push brake
peddle
about a hour and do not forget
while you are under their look around for other problems that might
be brewing. In example RUST or rusting, damage, clogging fuel
filter, fuel leaks, tie rod end wear, ball joint wear, condition of
shocks and towers, weather or not the steering box is leaking: Look
around while you are under their because you are not under the
bottom all that often. Problems can go for years before they reveal
themselves as a road side brake down and usually when you are in a
hurry.
Procedure for Bleeding
It takes 2 people to do
this procedure.
After installing the
master cylinder finger tight and hooking up ALL the lines then
tighten all the brake lines: Their is a bolt head in the middle top
of the cylinder; that is the bleeder for the master cylinder.
Loosen to the left
(counter clock wise), as if you were looking down on top of the
master cylinder.
Push down on the brake
peddle and hold it their until the other person has a chance to turn
the valve to the right (clockwise) until it stops, closing the
valve.
Let up on the brake
peddle.
Press down on the brake
peddle as far as it will go.
Turn valve on the master
cylinder open and let fluid and air out.
Close valve then let
brake peddle up.
Repeat steps 3 through 8
until nothing but brake fluid, WITH NO BUBBLES, comes out of the
valve.
Proceed with bleeding
the wheel cylinders until no bubbles, just brake fluid comes out of
them. Hint start with the passenger rear, then the driver rear, then
the passenger front and finally the driver front wheel cylinders.
If their is any
discoloration in the brake fluid keep pumping it out until it is
clear. You have to do this every 60,000 miles or 2 years according
to maintenance curve anyway because brake fluid brakes down in water
and or moister over time exposed to the elements, especially if you
do not have the convince of a garage.
Most important of all;
be one with the air-cooled Volkswagen. You will venture through many
things together forming a bond not even the Borg could understand.
Enjoy the fruits of your
labors and know you are in touch with all 5,115 parts of your air
-cooled Volkswagen (give or take a part or two from year to year).
New Beetles are really
Golf 3's. So stick that in your wasser boxer formally known as
CONCEPT 1. I guess I will always be a first generation VW
appreciation of simplicity and ergonomic engineering. It can be hard
to keep things simple yet precise. In memory of Gene Berg. A man
that carried on the cutting edges of new technology just to perfect
something that always had room to be tinkered with in new ways and
still keep it simple. Thank you Dee for staying in business.
Page last
updated:
Tuesday, 06 March 2012 08:10:56 -0600
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